New Tree Planting


Think of the tree you just purchased as a lifetime investment. How well your tree, and investment, grows depends on the type of tree and location you select for planting, the care you provide when the tree is planted, and follow-up care the tree receives after planting.


Planting the Tree
The ideal time to plant trees and shrubs is during the dormant season and in the fall after leaf drop or early spring before budbreak. Weather conditions are cool and allow plants to establish roots in the new location before spring rains and summer heat stimulate new top growth. However, trees properly cared for in the nursery or garden center, and given the appropriate care during transport to prevent damage, can be planted throughout the growing season. In tropical and subtropical climates where trees grow year round, any time is a good time to plant a tree, provided that sufficient water is available. In either situation, proper handling during planting is essential to ensure a healthy future for new trees and shrubs. Before you begin planting your tree, be sure you have had all underground utilities located prior to digging.

If the tree you are planting is balled or bare root, it is important to understand that its root system has been reduced by 90 to 95 percent of its original size during transplanting. As a result of the trauma caused by the digging process, trees commonly exhibit what is known as transplant shock. Containerized trees may also experience transplant shock, particularly if they have circling roots that must be cut. Transplant shock is indicated by slow growth and reduced vigor following transplanting. Proper site preparation before and during planting coupled with good follow-up care reduces the amount of time the plant experiences transplant shock and allows the tree to quickly establish in its new location. Carefully follow nine simple steps, and you can significantly reduce the stress placed on the plant at the time of planting.

1. Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Make the hole wide, as much as three times the diameter of the root ball but only as deep as the root ball. It is important to make the hole wide because the roots on the newly establishing tree must push through surrounding soil in order to establish. On most planting sites in new developments, the existing soils have been compacted and are unsuitable for healthy root growth. Breaking up the soil in a large area around the tree provides the newly emerging roots room to expand into loose soil to hasten establishment.

2. Identify the trunk flare. The trunk flare is where the roots spread at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been planted (see diagram). If the trunk flare is not partially visible, you may have to remove some soil from the top of the root ball. Find it so you can determine how deep the hole needs to be for proper planting.

3. Remove tree container for containerized trees. Carefully cutting down the sides of the container may make this easier.Inspect the root ball for circling roots and cut or remove them. Expose the trunk flare, if necessary.

4. Place the tree at the proper height. Before placing the tree in the hole, check to see that the hole has been dug to the proper depth and no more. The majority of the roots on the newly planted tree will develop in the top 12 inches of soil. If the tree is planted too deeply, new roots will have difficulty developing because of a lack of oxygen. It is better to plant the tree a little high, 2 to 3 inches above the base of the trunk flare, than to plant it at or below the original growing level. This planting level will allow for some settling (see diagram). To avoid damage when setting the tree in the hole, always lift the tree by the root ball and never by the trunk.

5. Straighten the tree in the hole. Before you begin backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm that the tree is straight. Once you begin backfilling, it is difficult to reposition the tree.
Fill the hole gently but firmly. Fill the hole about one-third full and gently but firmly pack the soil around the base of the root ball. Then, if the root ball is wrapped, cut and remove any fabric, plastic, string, and wire from around the trunk and root ball to facilitate growth (see diagram). Be careful not to damage the trunk or roots in the process.

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6. Fill the remainder of the hole, taking care to firmly pack soil to eliminate air pockets that may cause roots to dry out. To avoid this problem, add the soil a few inches at a time and settle with water. Continue this process until the hole is filled and the tree is firmly planted. It is not recommended to apply fertilizer at the time of planting.
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7. Stake the tree, if necessary. If the tree is grown and dug properly at the nursery, staking for support will not be necessary in most home landscape situations. Studies have shown that trees establish more quickly and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting. However, protective staking may be required on sites where lawn mower damage, vandalism, or windy conditions are concerns. If staking is necessary for support, there are three methods to choose among: staking, guying, and ball stabilizing. One of the most common methods is staking. With this method, two stakes used in conjunction with a wide, flexible tie material on the lower half of the tree will hold the tree upright, provide flexibility, and minimize injury to the trunk (see diagram). Remove support staking and ties after the first year of growth.

8. Mulch the base of the tree. Mulch is simply organic matter applied to the area at the base of the tree. It acts as a blanket to hold moisture, it moderates soil temperature extremes, and it reduces competition from grass and weeds. Some good choices are leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, or composted wood chips. A 2- to 4-inch layer is ideal. More than 4 inches may cause a problem with oxygen and moisture levels. When placing mulch, be sure that the actual trunk of the tree is not covered. Doing so may cause decay of the living bark at the base of the tree. A mulch-free area, 1 to 2 inches wide at the base of the tree, is sufficient to avoid moist bark conditions and prevent decay.

9. Provide follow-up care. Keep the soil moist but not soaked; overwatering causes leaves to turn yellow or fall off. Water trees at least once a week, barring rain, and more frequently during hot weather. When the soil is dry below the surface of the mulch, it is time to water. Continue until mid-fall, tapering off for lower temperatures that require less-frequent watering.
Other follow-up care may include minor pruning of branches damaged during the planting process. Prune sparingly immediately after planting and wait to begin necessary corrective pruning until after a full season of growth in the new location.

After you have completed these nine simple steps, further routine care and favorable weather conditions will ensure that your new tree or shrub will grow and thrive. A valuable asset to any landscape, trees provide a long-lasting source of beauty and enjoyment for people of all ages. When questions arise about the care of your tree, be sure to consult your local ISA Certified Arborist or a tree care or garden center professional for assistance.

 

FLOWERING BULBS

Bulbs are planted mostly 2 times a year. Spring and fall. Spring bulbs include Gladiolas, Tigridia, Canna, Dahlias and Begonias are usually not hardy in our climate but make a long blooming show during their season, which is summer.

Gladiolas and Dahlias make nice cut flowers for the summer table and Cannas are the show of the garden from July until frost. Begonias do nicely in dappled shade. Tigridia or Tiger Flower is a beautiful and curious shell-like flower, giving abundance of bloom for a long season. Individual flowers last only a day but more seem to come on as the season progresses.

A rule of thumb for planting bulbs is they should be planted at a depth of about three times their length or at least two inches deep.

Their hardy cousins on the other hand, which include Tulips, Hyacinths, Daffodils, Crocus, Iris, Alliums, Snowdrops are planted in the fall before a hard freeze and bloom in the spring months beginning with Snowdrops and Crocus in February/March and continuing with late blooming Tulips in May.

Often people people come into the garden center and want to get the bulbs for these hardy flowering plants and we must tell them to come back in September. Planting instructions are usually on each package or box of bulbs as to th time of bloom and the depth to plant them.

Research has shown that bulbs planted at incorrect depths will usually move up or down in the soil to adjust. Our experience here at Ashcombe has verified this. It is always wise to do your best at planting properly, but don't worry when you have a lot of them to put in. They will adapt.

Bulbs can be planting in the fall as long as the ground isn't frozen. Sometimes here in Central PA we can plant up until the end of the year safely. It's best to mass color to get the most striking effect. Some years ago a gardener of ours removed about 8 inches of soil from an entire bed, then set bulbs on the ground and covered them. He also mixed various seasonal types so the bed blended well for the entire blooming season April and May. What a show this was for a few years!

Tulip bulbs will do well for two years and begin to fade the third year. Daffodils almost continue endlessly but will fill in and take over your bed if not dug up and thinned. The best investment in bulbs in the minis (snowdrops, iris, crocus and hyacinths) as they seem to self-maintain and appear again each year in robust fashion.

Boston Fern

Shown above is the popular Boston fern which can be a real beauty as a house plant and taken out during the summer to hang in a partially shaded location. There are five kinds of ferns in this family, a short one called the Dallas fern; A compact version of the large Boston fern called Boston Compacta; another called Fluffy Duffy with a lacey like foliage; one called Florida Ruffles a good one either inside or out. And finally the one pictured above or the Big Boston Fern.


Culture and Needs
During active growth, "Boston-type Ferns" should be watered on a regular basis in order for the soil to remain moist. Distilled water is preferred over tap water because tap often contains harmful chlorine. It is recommended that the Boston fern is allowed to become dry between watering in fall and winter months. You can set a potted fern in a basin of water so it can soak up the moisture naturally.

Maintaining proper levels of temperature and humidity are necessary for successful growth of the Boston fern. "Big Boston" ferns like cool locations with lots of humidity. If the air in your home is too dry, operating a humidifier will greatly increase the moisture level.

The Boston fern requires indirect or diffused lighting. In locations where there is not enough natural light, a grow light can be used.

Water-soluble plant food can be applied once every two weeks during the warmer months is recommended. During winter fertilizer should be held to every two months. A good idea twice a year to maintain the green color is to add two tablespoons of Epsoms Salts per gallon of water. Epsom salts are magnesium sulfate and give the plant the much needed boost of magnesium.


There are many suitable houseplant ferns and here at Ashcombe we carry some interesting ones like Lemon Button Fern, Birdsnest fern, Oil ferns, Staghorn Ferns, and some with unusual names like Frosty, Antenna Fern, Foxtail fern, Crocodile and Blue Hair which are among the twenty five or more varieties we sell.

Would you like to grow roses like this Hybrid tea? If so stay tuned to this page.


Roses found in our garden center are hardy in this area so you may want to ask if they are subject to Rose diseases such as black spot, and powdery mildew, and pest such as aphids, spider mites and Japanese beetle. Some have more tolerance than others. Find a bright sunny spot with good air circulation and you’re ready to go.

Prepare the soil with a good loose compost type mixture including an organic rose fertilizer like Espoma Rose Tone which is a 4-3-2 plus calcium all natural food. Be sure your soil is moist as well as the newly purchased rose bush and make a hole 12” wide and plant in this loose mixture as deep as the bush was planted in its pot and no deeper. Water in well so soil settles around the roots.
If you put your plant in the ground in mid May while it is still moderately cool you won’t have to be concerned about the plant drying out. However if you’re doing it in June , July or thereafter, be sure that the soil doesn’t become too dry until you see new growth coming, indicating the roots have taken hold. Weather conditions play a role in growing roses so if we have a lot of hot and humid weather watch for black spot and powdery mildew as well as aphids and mites.


For larger blooms use a rose fertilizer 2-3 times a year.
Bonide has a good product called RX 3in 1 recommended for Organic gardeners. It contains Neem Oil which suppresses these pests.


On our Plant List on our Web site you will find our Rose List for 2010 which will be a start for you.
Great Rose gardening to you this year Article by Glenn.
 

Conserving Water

When we view the vast deserts of the world we understand at one time some of them were covered with lush vegetation and trees. Man cut the trees for firewood, building shelters to live in but failed to replace them with new trees. Since trees provide shade and root deeply they hold the soil in place so that when water comes in the form of rain it can be used by the trees to grow new trees and vegetation underneath such as ferns, moss and wildflowers.
All of this vegetation creates an eco system where the water transpired by the trees evaporates into the air and eventually recycles itself as rain to continue the growth of much needed plant material for mans welfare.


While this is a simple illustration of the importance of saving our resources it is one way that we can keep our water flowing in our environment. Planting of trees and shrubs around an otherwise barren property not only make it look good but start the processes going mentioned above.

Other ways of saving water are by using rain barrels, making catch basins in hilly terrain, and using mulch and lots of organic matter to hold and absorb what moisture we have. My uncle, a vegetable grower, years ago, grew a number of acres of vegetables without any irrigation just by applying heavy amounts of manure each spring before planting. He had crops even in very dry years and never had to water.

Farmers today are using a method that saves not only water but also fuel; it is called no-till farming where seeds are planted without disturbing the soil. This method will work in the home garden as well by using lots mulch and pulling back the mulch and putting in the seeds.
But if you need to water your plants, do not water in the heat of the day when evaporation will steal much of your water. Early morning or late afternoon is a better time. Modern day vegetable growers are using trickle irrigation which puts the water right where it is needed at the root of the plant. This saves much water and is also labor efficient. You can make your own trickle irrigation system by using old plastic gallon jugs and punching holes in them like pictured above, or purchase ones adapted for newly planted trees. Soaker hoses also work well. Be creative and your garden will flourish.


Article written by Glenn Gross April 6th 2010

What a Large Tree Can Do For You


Saves $30 in summertime air conditioning by shading the building and cooling the air (250 kWh), about 9% of total annual air conditioning cost.
Absorbs 10 lbs of air pollutants, including 4 lbs of ozone and 3 lbs of particulates. The value of pollutant uptake by the tree is $45 using the local market price of emission reduction credits. Uptake of NOx ( or greenhouse gases) by the tree is equivalent to NOx emitted by a typical car driven 3,600 miles.
Intercepts 760 gal of rainfall in its crown, thereby reducing runoff of polluted stormwater and flooding. This benefit is valued at $6 based on local expenditures for water quality management and flood control.
Cleans 330 lbs of CO2 (90 lbs C) from the atmosphere through direct sequestration in the tree's wood and reduced power plant emissions due to cooling energy savings. The value of this benefit is $5 assuming the California Energy Commission's price of $30/ton. This tree reduces the same amount of atmospheric CO2 as released by a typical car driven 500 miles.

Adds about 1% to the sales price of the property, or about $25 each year when annualized over a 40-year period. This assumes a median residential property sales price of $100,000. Property values increase 5-15% when compared to properties without trees (depends on species, maturity, quantity and location)

A 1976 study that evaluated the effects of several different variables on homes in Manchester, Connecticut, found that street trees added about $2686 or 6% to the sale price of a home.
A more recent study indicated that trees added $9,500, or more than 18 percent, to the average sale price of a residence in a suburb of Rochester, New York. With all the benefits of planting shade trees and the relative low cost of a tree in these times of more cars and businesses it would seem only logical to plan ahead for our future and look at our properties as an opportunity to enhance the environment and at the same time reap the benefits mentioned above.

Over forty years ago we planted trees around our one acre home, maples, evergreens, oaks, and birch and now enjoy the shade in the summer and the lesser load on our air conditioning systems. Those forty years passed quickly and we have enjoyed the beauty of the trees in all seasons. This report is brought to you by Glenn for your continued gardening success.

DO YOU NEED PLANTS THAT ARE EASY CARE?

You can't judge a book by its cover but you can judge a rose by its color. Knockout pink or red roses make it easy to grow roses with little fuss or muss. Since they are disease resistant, there is no worry about mildew or blackspot like there is with regular varieties of roses.

Knockout roses continue to bloom until hard frost and, with a little deadheading, will be a spectacular show in your garden. Knockouts come in both single and double bloom types and a color range of pinks and reds and a new yellow variety.

A few aphids are common on these roses but are no threat to the growth or flowering of the Knockouts. Watering once established can be infrequent but should be deep and long to keep the roots established well.

Pruning can be done anytime but the best time is in late winter. Cut them back to about 18 inches tall. This will encourage more branching and more flowers. It is good practice to use a good organic rose food at planting time and in the spring each year.

 

Color & Texture in a Garden

All of the above are perennials and shrubs that have been in this garden for years. This picture was taken on June 22, 2010 showing the color and texture that happens with just a little planning. It is located in our Ashcombe American garden adjacent to our parking lot.
Pictured above are yellow Euonymus, front and center, blooming white yucca amidst grasses, and behind are Perovskia, (Russian Sage) and Salvias’ May Night and Caradonna. The background for this garden is evergreens, which give a soft touch to the garden. This is of course a sun garden and a dry garden. For a shade garden the one pictured below is a combination Hostas, grasses and a water feature that attracts birds. It is located in our bird garden in the same area as the picture above but with shade from bushes and trees.

GARDENING WITH GRASSES

Grasses have a beauty all their own from the Giant Miscanthus to the Festuca or Blue Oat Grass .
The first picture above shows grasses as they emerge spring and early summer and the next two are late season pictures with their blooms and showing how they fit into the landscape.
Grasses need to be cut back in the early spring and have a winter character that few other perennials have. They are a shelter for birds, can be a wind break for tender shrubs and have a special accent in the winter landscape. Give them plenty of room, as they will spread in a few years and can be divided late fall but preferably early spring.
Their plumes are very impressive and occur from August through the fall. There are literally hundreds of varieties of grasses both for sun and part shade and many tolerate dry conditions so those who want to save water would do well to consider grasses in their gardens. They require very little care and if you buy them from a reputable source they will winter over nicely. One variety that will not winter is the red fountain grass (Pennisetum Rubrum) so beware of this one if you want a hardy grass. Other nice grasses are pictured below.

 

GROWING STRAWBERRIES

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